Key Lime & Lemon Citrus Bonsai Trees (citrus aurantifolia & meyer lemon)

FOR SALE

Flowering Cocktail Citrus Bonsai Tree Two Different Citrus Trees in One Pot ('Citrus Aurantifolia' and 'Citrus Meyeri')

Flowering Cocktail Citrus Bonsai Tree For Sale Two Different Citrus Trees in One Pot ('Citrus Aurantifolia' and 'Citrus Meyeri')Description

Our Cocktail Citrus Bonsai Tree consists of two citrus trees, a Key Lime and a Meyer Lemon in a single bonsai container. Both have very fragrant flowers and fruit readily on their own. The Key Lime is smaller, seedier, and has a higher acidity, a stronger aroma and a thinner rind than that of the more common lime. The Meyer Lemon is a cross between a true lemon and a Manadarin Orange. The fruit is yellow and rounder than a true lemon and is sweeter and has less acidic flavor than the common Lisbon or Eureka grocery store lemon varieties. Evergreen. Great for indoors.

Features:

8 years old each, 15″ – 18″ tall.

Recommended indoor flowering and fruiting bonsai tree, grown and trained by Bonsai Boy.

Suitable humidity/drip tray is recommended. To purchase add $8.95.

General Description

Lime is a little, thick, bushy, spiny, evergreen shrub native to Southeast Asia and India. Garden enthusiasts normally prune it to develop a more conventional tree practice. Later on, the fertlized flowers end up being rounded, extremely acidic green fruits that will develop to yellow.

As a container plant, it likes a soil-based potting mix and complete light with security from hot afternoon sun. It can be grown for its fruit or utilized as a little specimen tree, container, shrub, or hedge plant.

Culture

Winter season sturdy to USDA Zones 9-11 where this little citrus tree will grow well in sandy, neutral, well-drained soils in complete sun to light shade. When grown outside, this tree will bear fruit year around in warm temperature levels, nevertheless it might slip into inactivity if winter season temperature levels dip considerably listed below 55F. Indoor plants generally fruit in spring.

Noteworthy Characteristics

It was presented into the U.S. by Frank Meyer who supposedly discovered the plant in 1908 near Peking, China. Initial Meyer lemon trees were symptomless providers of an infection (tristeza) that eliminated other citrus household trees. Those initial trees were primarily ruined and changed with a virus-free range that today is referred to as enhanced Meyer lemon.

Genus name is from classical Latin.

Particular epithet honors Frank Meyer.

Issues

No severe bug or illness issues. Prospective insect bugs consist of aphids, thrips, cutworms, leafrollers, scales, whiteflys and mealybugs.

Garden Uses

Exceptional little tree for fruit production. Ornamentally appealing around outdoor patios or houses. Might be grown as a houseplant.

Cocktail: Key Lime & Lemon Citrus (Citrus Aurantifolia & Meyer Lemon)

Our Mixed drink Citrus Bonsai Tree consists of 2 citrus trees: a Secret Lime (citrus aurantifolia) and a Lemon Citrus (meyer lemon) in a single bonsai container. The Meyer lemon is frequently grown in China in garden pots as a decorative tree. The Meyer lemon fruit is yellow and rounder than a real lemon.

Ways To Take Appropriate Care Of Your Indoor Bonsai Tree

Bonsai is the recreation of natural tree kinds in mini. This art kind has its origin in Japan and China where it has actually been practiced for centuries. Bonsai are grown in pots and are absolutely based on you for their care.

With correct care, your bonsai will stay healthy, stunning and mini for several years to come. Because your bonsai is a living mini tree, it will increase in appeal as it develops through the years. The guidelines listed below are simply the essentials and, for that reason, we advise that you buy among the lots of great books offered on the topic.

Positioning Summer Season

The Mixed drink Bonsai– Secret Lime and Meyer Lemon are both trees that will thank you for putting them in the brightest, sunniest part of your lawn. Citrus bonsais enjoy the sun and they like heat, When night time temperature levels drop listed below 45 degrees we recommend that you bring your bonsai inside and position the tree on a windowsill or on a table in front of one.

Positioning Winter Season

As soon as nighttime lows start approaching the 50 degree mark, it is time to bring your indoor bonsai inside. A northern direct exposure will work, however will demand the usage of “grow lights” to offer enough light to keep your bonsai healthy. If you can offer more, so much the much better.

Watering

It is an excellent concept to utilize a wetness meter up until you get to understand the requirements of your bonsai tree. It does not truly matter “how” you water your tree, however rather that when you are ended up the tree has actually been well watered.

Humidity

Throughout the cold months, when your bonsai is within, we suggest putting it in a shallow tray filled with a layer of gravel with water included. This offers additional wetness around the tree as the water lowers the quantity and vaporizes of wetness lost to modern-day heater.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing is likewise needed if your bonsai is to stay stunning and healthy. Because your bonsai is growing in such a little quantity of soil it is required to renew the soil’s supply of nutrients occasionally. Your bonsai will likewise react well to foliar feeding, with a water-soluble fertilizer used every other month as a spray.

Training

This quick description of standard care does not cover training. Training handle the art of bonsai and ought to be completely comprehended prior to endeavor– or delegated an expert. Many of the real bonsai trees you discover have actually currently been through their training duration, therefore needing just routine pinching and cutting to stay mini.

Cutting & Pinching

Pinching and cutting keep your tree mini. Sub-tropical and tropical trees utilized for bonsai will need regular pinching and cutting throughout the year. Given that various trees grow at various rates, it is required to assess each tree’s rate of development and change your pinching and cutting to accommodate it.

Repotting

The factors for repotting are to provide your tree with fresh soil, and to motivate a more compact root system. Given that trees grow at various rates, this schedule will not constantly hold real, for that reason, you need to analyze your tree’s root system each year to identify if it has actually ended up being pot-bound.

The tree, along with all of its soil, ought to be eliminated from the pot. Location a layer of well-draining soil which is adequate enough to raise the tree to its previous height in the pot. After putting the tree back in the pot, the location left uninhabited by the pruned root mass must be filled in with fresh soil.

Insects & Diseases

Considering that your bonsai is a tree in mini, it can be dealt with for pests and illness the like other tree. Visit our site where you will be able to get the required items to get rid of the issue if you find any illness or pests.

Planting

  1. Dig beds or holes large, not deep.
  2. Gently change heavy clay or sandy soils with raw material.
  3. Carefully eliminate plants from containers, keeping the root ball undamaged.
  4. Loosen up potting soil and roots around bottom and edges of root ball.
  5. Plant level with surrounding soil, spreading out roots external.
  6. Fill around roots with gently modified native soil.
  7. Water to settle soil around roots.
  8. Cover the location with leaf or bark mulch 1 – 3 inches thick however not accumulated onto the plant’s stem/trunk.
  9. Water deeply.
  10. Prune brand-new fruit trees to simply 2-3 feet high to make them begin branching off low to the ground.

Watering

  1. Woody plants require watering less regularly than tender annuals or herbaceous plants.
  2. Many developed shrubs, trees, and vines can go weeks without additional watering other than in windy or exceptionally hot weather condition.
  3. Watering from a hose pipe or sprinkler ought to be done gradually and deeply, not often, to prevent shallow root advancement or root illness. Permit soil to dry a number of inches deep prior to watering.
  4. When useful, particularly in dry environments, usage and keep water-efficient soaker tubes or drip watering. Water quickly 2 or 3 times a week to keep soil damp, not damp.
  5. A lot of winter season injury is from drying, not cold temperature levels. Be prepared to water throughout extended warm, windy, droughts even in the winter season.
  6. Mulches assist avoid water loss throughout hot, windy, or warm weather condition.

Pruning

  1. Many pruned fruit plants will produce much better quality, bigger fruit that is simpler to spray and harvest than unpruned plants, and the plants are less most likely to divide under the weight of excessive fruit.
  2. Prune the majority of fruit plants in the winter season by weakening messy or high development, and getting rid of additional long branches.
  3. Prevent pruning excessive of the previous season’s development, or you will eliminate the existing season’s flowers and for that reason limitation fruit production.
  4. Grapevines need heavy pruning every winter season to keep vines in bounds and to make gathering simpler; constantly leave a few of the previous season’s development, from which brand-new fruiting development will grow.
  5. New spring development of blueberries and “bramble” fruits (blackberries, raspberries, and so on) must be tip-pruned to trigger stems to branch off rather of growing slender and long; eliminate old fruiting stems after harvest in the summer season.
  6. Strawberries are best grown as 2- or 3-year crops; get rid of old plants and permit brand-new plants to complete.

Propagation

  1. Numerous fruit plants can be grown from seed, however it takes a long period of time and the outcomes are typically not exactly what was anticipated due to cross-pollination from “mom” plants.
  2. Propagate tree fruit and grapevines from cuttings rooted in late or mid winter season.
  3. Root evergreen fruit shrubs in summer under high humidity.
  4. Implanting and “fledgling” current development from fully grown plants onto rootstocks or branches of closely-related plants is simple however needs some ability; this is best carried out in late winter season or spring.
  5. Make cuts in rootstock or branches.
  6. Working rapidly to prevent anything drying, cut and insert graftwood or buds into slits.
  7. Wrap with elastic band or other product to avoid drying.
  8. When the graft or bud begins to grow, eliminate branch or branch beyond it.

Fertilization

A lot of plants require a routine “diet plan” of all-purpose plant food, either specialized (identified for your particular plant type) or a generic N-P-K (nitrogen – phosphorus – potassium).

Fertilize early in the plant’s growing cycle – spring for summertime plants, succumb to winter season plants.

For leafy plants, utilize a fertilizer with a greater nitrogen material (very first number).
For blooming or fruiting plants, utilize a fertilizer greater in phosphorous material (middle number).

If utilizing a water soluble fertilizer:

  1. Mix as directed on container inning accordance with instructions.
  2. Wet the leaves and soak soil.
  3. Repeat.

If utilizing a granulated fertilizer:

  1. Spread a percentage of versatile fertilizer gently under plants from the stem to beyond the external spread of branches or foliage.
  2. Water gradually and deeply.

KEEP IN MIND: Never ever over fertilize! You will see great deals of weak, leafy development and couple of flowers.

Our cocktail Citrus Bonsai Tree consists of 2 citrus trees: a Secret Lime (citrus aurantifolia) and a Lemon Citrus (meyer lemon) in a single bonsai container. It does not truly matter “how” you water your tree, however rather that when you are ended up the tree has actually been well watered.

Because various trees grow at various rates, it is essential to examine each tree’s rate of development and change your pinching and cutting to accommodate it.

Given that trees grow at various rates, this schedule will not constantly hold real, for that reason, you must analyze your tree’s root system each year to figure out if it has actually ended up being pot-bound.

Initial Meyer lemon trees were symptomless providers of an infection (tristeza) that eliminated other citrus household trees.

Key Lime & Lemon Citrus Bonsai Trees For Sale

  • Also referred to as Mexican Lime or Bar Tender’s Lime, has a globose fruit 1-2″ that’s yellowish when mature but generally picked green. It’s smaller, seedier, has a greater acidity, a stronger scent, and a thinner rind than that of the more common Persian Lime. It’s valued because of its exceptional flavor compared to other limes, with the Key-Lime generally having a more sour flavor. The Key-Lime is a little tree with an open habit and heavy crop of fruit that’s aromatic blossoms and fruits easily alone. Great for inside. Popularly employed for Key-Lime pie.

  • Our Cocktail Citrus Bonsai Tree includes two citrus trees, a Key-Lime as well as a Meyer Lemon within a bonsai container. Both have quite aromatic blossoms and fruit easily independently. The Key-Lime is smaller, seedier, and contains an increased acidity, a stronger odor and a thinner rind than that of the more prevalent lime. The Meyer Lemon is a combination between a real lemon as well as a Manadarin Orange. The fresh fruit is yellowish and rounder than a real lemon and is sweeter and h-AS less acidic taste compared to common Lisbon or Eureka grocery shop lemon types. Evergreen. Great for inside. .

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